ABOUT C.V. JOINT BOOTS
(CONSTANT VELOCITY)

A constant velocity joint boot is the component that covers and protects the constant velocity joint itself from the elements. A constant velocity joint is the actual bearing on the axle that allows the drive axles to turn while driving the vehicles front wheels. Front wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles have four of these boots. The most common boots to fail are the outboard boots because they are under the most stress.

Not only is it the ‘job’ of the C.V. boots to cover and protect, they also contain the grease which lubricates the C.V. Joint. If the boot becomes torn, the grease escapes and the joint will become contaminated with dirt. As with any bearing, it must be lubricated at all times with clean lubrication or it will fail.

Typically a C.V. Joint protected properly will last the lifetime of the vehicle. If the boot is torn and replaced promptly, there is no major effect on the service life of the joint. Torn boots that are not replaced promptly can allow the joint to fail prematurely. If the joint on an axle shaft fails it will make a distinct ‘clicking noise’ when turning the wheel and accelerating. If the noise is audible, the joint must be replaced. This usually doubles the cost and expense of the original repair necessary (replacing the C.V. boot only).

The repair process involved in the replacement of a boot is usually only a couple of hours time (per outer boot) and can be accomplished in less than one day even if there are two being replaced. While it is not as common, inner boots will fail also. It is best when replacing one boot on an axle, to have them both (outer and inner boots) replaced if the other is showing signs of fatigue. The additional expense is minimal in comparison to having one replaced now and then the other on the same axle at a later date.

C.V. boots are not an item that is normally serviced at regular intervals. The replacement of a boot should only be done when one of the two boots on an axle shaft fails and should be done as soon as possible after failure to prevent the joint from premature failure. If you have waited until you can hear the ‘clicking noise’ when you are turning and accelerating, you have waited too long and replacing a boot only, will not help. The entire axle shaft needs replacement, almost doubling the expense of the repair. C.V. boots are important to your vehicles drive train.

ABOUT FUEL FILTERS

Your fuel filter can and will affect the performance of your vehicle by allowing the fuel to pass through it easily or, if it is dirty, restricting the fuel flow. If the filter becomes clogged or restricted and it is not changed, you will notice a definite loss of performance, power, hard starting, rough idle, and other trouble symptoms which can cause several other problems with your vehicle.

Depending on where you live in the country, fueling stations change the types of fuel blends available during Summer and Winter. When the stations change the fuel blends for the different seasons, they generally run the storage tanks empty. This forces the service station pumps to pick up and deliver the dirty bottom sediment of these storage tanks directly into your vehicles fuel system. Your fuel filter has the job of keeping the dirt out of your injectors, and becomes clogged quickly because of this. We live in a part of the country where most fueling stations change blends twice a year.

RECOMMENDED FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT

ONCE A YEAR, GENERALLY AT THE BEGINNING OF SUMMER IS THE BEST TIME TO HAVE YOUR FUEL FILTER CHANGED.

A FEW FACTS ABOUT CLOGGED FUEL FILTERS

• Leaving a restricted fuel filter in your vehicle can cause the fuel pump
module to burn out, creating an expensive repair.

• A vehicle forced to run lean (plugged fuel filter) can melt holes in the pistons due to the lean air fuel mixture.

• When the vehicle is running lean, the computer tries to compensate for the lean mixture by lengthening the fuel injector pulse width. If the maximum parameters are reached, the check engine light will come on and diagnostic trouble codes will be set. The difficulty of this is that the computer has no way to verify that the fuel filter is clean and clear and it will assume there are other problems. This could lead to other repair expenses that were not really necessary.

ABOUT ‘SERVICE ENGINE’ WARNING LAMP
(AKA – CHECK ENGINE LIGHT)

This lamp illuminates when the vehicles computer detects a problem with the computer controlled electronic devises on your vehicle. These devices in the newer (96 and up) vehicles control far more than just the engine. If all vehicle manufacturer’s placed a warning lamp for all the different functions the vehicles computer controlled, there would not be enough room on the dash for them all.

When the lamp has illuminated, there is a problem detected. What the exact problem is needs to be diagnosed before further damage to a particular control system is incurred. The complication here is that it has to be diagnosed using a ‘scanner,’ that can read the data flow from the vehicles computer. As technology progresses, these scanners are becoming much more complicated to use, but at the same time, give much more information about the operating parameters of the vehicle when they are recording the data-stream trouble codes (verifying the failure the computer has detected, turning on the service/malfunction lamp).

In most cases the lamp illuminates to bring to your attention the fact it has detected a problem and needs attention. The computer will turn on the lamp and substitute a programmed base value (default value) for the failed component, and the vehicle will continue to run. When the computer has substituted a default value the vehicle is in ‘limp mode.’ Overall performance and fuel economy are affected along with cold starting, warm up time, A/C operation, etc., (in most vehicles).

When the engine lamp is on, sometimes it will go off all by itself. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THE VEHICLE FIXED ITSELF. Service is still necessary to find the reason for illumination in the first place. The computer has stored the trouble code in its memory and has sampled the component values again. If they are within the operating parameters, it will use the ‘live’ readings instead of the default values, turning off the lamp TEMPORARALY. – HOW LONG THIS WILL LAST? – NO ONE KNOWS.

Not all trouble codes are the result of a component failure. It may be working within its normal operating parameters and reading right. Other problems may have triggered the out of spec. readings from the component, such as a vacuum leak, bad spark plug, loose gas cap, etc. Computer scanning the vehicle is the only way to determine the problem area and required repair without guessing.

ABOUT STRUTS AND SHOCKS

Ride and Handling Characteristics of your vehicle are controlled by many different factors. The performance condition of the Struts and Shocks, Tires, and the Other Suspension Components all greatly affect your overall control of the vehicle during any driving situation.

The ‘job’ struts and shocks perform is they ensure all tires remain in contact with road surface at all times, even over irregularities. When the struts and shocks are worn due to being driven on excessively harsh road conditions all the time (pot holes, country roads), normal wear and tear (due to mileage), or severe service expectations (performance driving applications, towing, heavy loads), they cannot keep the tire firmly against the ground as well because they loose their dampening ability. This creates a floating feeling in the steering wheel at times while driving.

What actually happens is that the tires ‘float’ just along the surface of the road instead of being held ‘against’ the road surface. When the dampening ability of the struts and shocks is diminished, the little road irregularities keep the tires suspended in the air. This reduces your handling capabilities in ALL driving conditions, including rain and snow.

If your vehicle feels like it is bouncing constantly while driving or continues to bounce more than two times after going over a normal speed bump, chances are that the struts and shocks are worn out. The valves that control the dampening ability of them have become worn and are failing. Struts and shocks do not have to be leaking to be bad, but this is another good indication of a problem with them.

Average life span for MOST struts and shocks is approximately 40,000 – 50,000 miles. Under extreme and/or severe conditions, this approximation is reduced according to the conditions they are subjected to. Front struts tend to wear out faster than the rear struts/shocks because of the increased load due to the engine and transmission being in the front.

An alignment must be performed at the same time of replacement. Replacing all units (front and rear) at the same time is best for increased ride comfort, vehicle handling and control, and will save money in the long run by reducing tire wear.
Average replacement time requires less than one day.

ABOUT TIMING BELTS

Timing Belts are becoming very common on most modern vehicles. They are lightweight and allow for smaller engine designs. The draw back of a timing belt is that it needs to be replaced at periodic intervals, or it will break and leave the engine inoperative.

If your timing belt has exceeded the manufactures recommended replacement schedule, IT CAN FAIL AT ANY TIME. There is no prior warning signs of emanate failure and in most cases you and your vehicle will be stranded and inconvenienced.

Extreme weather conditions add to the stress factors of the timing belt and most often they will fail in extreme hot or cold, though they can and do break at all times of the year after exceeding their replacement interval.

Here a few facts about timing belts:

1) They are the component that drives the engine camshaft(s). In most engines they also drive the water pump. When replacing a timing belt, it is often recommended that the water pump be replaced at the same time – Even If – the water pump does not have a problem at this time. The labor amount involved to change a water pump at a later date is virtually the same as replacing the belt in the first place.

2) In some engines, timing belt failure can cause internal engine damage to the valve train. If this happens, a relatively simple preventive maintenance procedure increases into a major engine repair. Your service specialist will inform you if this applies to your engine type.

3) Most Manufacturers Timing Belt Replacement Schedules Are:
• Pre 2000 Vehicles – Replacement recommended every 60,000 miles.
• Post 2000 Vehicles – Replacement recommended every 90,000 miles.
The difference between Pre and Post 2000 vehicles is manufacturing differences in the ‘surface area’ of the belt.

4) Most timing belt replacement procedures can be accomplished in less than one day, unless it has caused internal engine damage.

ABOUT TRANSMISSION SERVICES

Servicing your Automatic or Manual Transmission is a very important maintenance procedure as your transmission is the second most important component of your vehicle. Most people change the engine oil on a regular basis, but neglect to change the transmission oil (fluid) at all, or will let the transmission fluid (oil) remain in their transmissions far beyond the service life of the lubricating qualities of the fluids.

Automatic transmissions are far more susceptible to becoming contaminated with internal friction materials and malfunction, because of the nature of the transmission. An automatic transmission has clutch materials similar to a standard transmission vehicle EXCEPT the clutch packs are contained inside the transmission and are operated hydraulically. The friction materials that wear out in the clutch packs fall to the bottom of the transmission pan and collect there. If they remain and are not cleaned out on a regular basis, they are picked up again and could clog the hydraulic passages causing expensive transmission problems later. It is not a matter of “IF’ they will cause problems, it’s a matter of “WHEN.”

Maintaining your vehicles transmission fluid is not any more expensive than changing the oil on a regular basis, except that the transmission service intervals are spaced further apart than regular oil changes. When the service amounts are added together, the final cost of maintaining your transmission, is FAR LESS EXPENSIVE than replacing a transmission due to lack of maintenance.

A typical “Complete Transmission Service” will take approximately one hour and should be done EVERY 50,000 miles (at least). Special circumstances add to the mileage/time estimates such as, Four-Wheel drive, All-Wheel drive, and others. Heavy or Severe Duty vehicles should be serviced more frequently.

A Complete Transmission Service will consist of 1) Checking the Condition of the fluid BEFORE servicing. 2) Removing the transmission pan, draining the fluid and cleaning the pan. 3) Replacing the filter. 4) Replacing the pan gasket and filling the transmission to the proper level with new fluid.

Failure to service your transmission as needed, is the same as not changing the oil in your engine. Waiting until you have a problem is waiting to long.

ABOUT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM CLEANING

All modern vehicles use what is called ‘fuel injection’ to deliver the proper amount of fuel to the cylinders of the engine. This system needs proper care and maintenance at regular intervals just as any other operating system of the vehicle.

While these systems vary somewhat, they all use the same basic principal. How it works – Fuel, under pressure, is forced through a very small hole in the end of an injector. The length of time this ‘hole’ allows fuel to pass through is regulated by the vehicles computer.

The computer has no way of detecting if this passage is clean and clear of obstructions. If dirty, you will notice a lack of performance when you accelerate, surging at cruise, rough idle, and stumbles and/or stalls. The computer assumes the injectors are clean due to proper maintenance and will try to compensate for loss of performance by lengthening the injector pulse width. Depending on how ‘clogged’ the injectors are, other problems arise and the check engine lamp will illuminate with false codes (blaming other components for the performance failure).

Many times unnecessary parts are replaced in search of the root problem, a dirty/clogged injector, and/or dirty throttle plate.

A complete ‘fuel injection system cleaning’ addresses these issues and should be preformed at least once a year. Adding a fuel injection cleaner to the gas tank is only half of the entire process. Having the system cleaned will restore lost performance, increase mileage, smooth the idle and save money at the pump!

About Your Battery & Charging System
The environment your battery and alternator has to live in is quite hostile. Under hood temperatures can exceed 350 degrees. Combine this with everything you expect from the battery and alternator and its little wonder they last as long as they do.

As our environmental conditions change from one extreme to another so does the requirements placed on these components. During the sub-freezing temperatures, we expect our vehicles to start and during the sweltering heat of summer, we want our air conditioning to cool us down. Both of these extremes are very hard on the vehicles electrical system. The battery must maintain a minimum operating voltage and hold a reserve charge to be used for starting. The alternator must provide all of the electrical demands we place on the system (lights, defrosters, A/C, radio, etc.) and still charge the battery back up to optimum operating voltages.

If a battery has become weak and cannot perform the necessary functions, it places extra demand on the alternator. When the alternator is forced to work constantly, it will not last as long, increase fuel consumption, increase engine operating temperatures, wear out other vital components (belts, idler-pulleys, etc.,).

Generally a 60 – 70 month battery will only last three to four years before a decline in performance is noticed. Having the battery tested before the extreme of any season is upon us is the best way to detect if your battery/charging system is starting to become weak and will only take a few moments.

Ignoring a potential problem in the charging system will result in many problems with the electrical system of your vehicle, including computer problems, drivability, performance, reliability, fuel economy and vehicle dependability.

About Your Engines Coolant

An engine needs protection from freezing and overheating. Your coolant plays an important part in the life of your engine. During the winter it protects the engine from freezing and cracking. During the hot summer month’s coolant protects the engine from overheating and extreme operating temperatures.

Normally the only time a person concerns themselves with the engines cooling system is when they have an overheating situation, or at the beginning of winter. Keeping the coolant refreshed and at the optimum-operating blend extends the life of the cooling system, the life of the engine, and will lower the over- all maintenance expenses (water-pump replacement), and will help to keep your driving experiences trouble free.

During hot summer months, most vehicles are subjected to extreme temperatures and increased engine loads due to the air-conditioning system being turned on. At times like this not only does the coolant have to cool the engine, it has to cool you too!

A Little known fact:
Coolant serves three important purposes. 1) It decreases the freezing point of water. 2) It increases the boiling point of water.
3) It lubricates the water pump. Fresh coolant helps to keep the engine from ‘boiling over’ and will help to dissipate the increased temperatures in the engine compartment from the A/C and the hotter ambient air temps, effectively increasing the engines life.

Keeping the cooling system at optimal performance will increase the efficiency of your air conditioning system, protect the engine, and help to keep your summer driving trouble free.